What India Likes To Eat: The Taste of Gujarat

|By- Het Panchal|

In the scorching heat, the temperature might rise to 50 degree Celsius but kites will still be flying high in the sky. The Rann may be white in colour but its people never shy away from colours. Gujarat is the seat of heritage. Many great souls are linked to this land. Gujarat's natural and cultural heritage has shaped its food. The taste always reminds us of this land and its people. Situated on the western side of India, Gujarat is a cluster of sects and communities living here. Tribes and clans live in Kutch's vast and isolated desert along with communities like Jains, Parsis and Hindu and Muslim traders and craftsmen. These groups have been shaping Gujarat's culture for ages. Gujarat's food is an amalgamation of the food of all these communities. It is the identity of the people here.

More or less we get to see that due to historical and cultural reasons, the majority of the population in Gujarat is vegetarian. You will find seasonal vegetables, it's neither fried nor cooked too much and there's more emphasis on lentils. You get the taste of sugar in a savoury and salty food item. The most interesting thing is that what we call 'salt' they call it 'Mitthu' which means sweet. Vegetarian fare has always been prevalent in Gujarat. Mainly due to the influence of Jainism which is older than 3000 years. There's a strong possibility that almost 2500 years ago, India was probably the first country where vegetarian cuisine came into being around.

Marwad and Gujarat are essentially deserted and barren. Gujarat is a temperate region. It is extremely hot here. In case if there's vegetation, it would be forced vegetation. The land would remain fertile only if irrigation is practised. People who live in the interiors of Kutch survive on vegetable dishes. In all the villages and rural areas of the country, the poorest man's food consists of flatbread (Roti/Chapati) and onion. Onion is that magical component of Indian food that creates a place for itself in every cuisine, kitchen and food. India is one of the two countries in the world with the highest onion production. But actually, onion is not an Indian product. The earliest evidence of its use has been found in parts of Akhand Bharat. Along with a dry dish made with potatoes and onion, Kutchi food has also a dish of 'Sev' cooked in tomato gravy.

We find the first mention of 'Sev' in Manasulasa book written in the 12th century. According to historians, Sev was used much before then in Indian food and it's believed that Sev was invented in Gujarat. In the western part of India, almost every vegetable is consumed with Millet flatbread. 'Rotla'. It means thick flatbread. It is believed that Millet arrived in India around 4000 years ago. It would be wrong to say that Kutchi food is insipid and plain. This meal comprising of Kutch's food is an example of how even the most of difficult situations will bow down in the face of mankind's resolution and determination. Kutch's food comprises of 'Sev tameta nu shak', 'Bateta Kanda nu shak', Lazeeza (Khichdi), 'Bajra no rotlo' and seasonal vegetables.

In Gujarati, 'Dabeli' means pressed. This dish is made by stuffing a mixture of tomato, potatoes, pomegranate, peanuts and Sev in a bun. It was invented in Kutch's Mandvi town during 1960, when a person named Keshavji Gabha used to sell this Dabeli for 1 Aana. After many years the price of Dabeli might have increased but its tangy taste is still the same. Like Kutch's desert, Gujarat's food is limitless. On the one hand, we have people of Kutch, who struggle from wasteland and famine, on the other hand, we have the food of Kathiyawad and Saurashtra.

Saurashtra is that part of Gujarat whose food has its own identity. The food here is pungent and it's spicy. Chillies are used generously. You will find that the amount of chilli used in the food of Kathiyawad and Saurashtra is one grade above than other places in Gujarat. Savoury, spicy, sweet and sour. You get a combination of all these flavours in a traditional Gujarati Thali. Today it's become a representation of Gujarati cuisine. A Gujarati Thali consists of Kathor (sprouts), lentils, kadhi, khichdi, kheer, Kachumbar, athanu, chhundo, Tadela Marcha (fried chillies), seasonal vegetables, Undhiyo, Sev tameta nu shak, Fulka (roti), Bajra no rotlo, Churmo, Kansar, Lapsi, Ghava no lot no Sherri (wheat flour pudding) or Sukhdi. To preserve the levels of glucose in the body, Gujaratis started adding jaggery to lentils and some other dishes. This tradition is still prevalent.

Lentils are widely used in Gujarat. Gujaratis are quite fond of one particular lentil. Split Bengal gram or Bengal gram. It is the main ingredient of Gujarati snacks. In India, the first evidence of its use can be found in Yajurveda, dating back to 3000 years. Gram flour or Besan is used to make kadhi, bhajiya or Gota, fafda, khakhra, gathiya and different types of Sev. And the dishes made from Besan are divided into snacks and savouries. Dhokla. This particular dish from Gujarat is world-famous. This savoury sponge cake dish is prepared in different ways and different colours in each city of Gujarat. Khaman dhokla is the most popular type of dhokla. The first mention if Dhokla is in Gujarati Jain scriptures dating back in the 11th century.

Savouries like Khandvi, Dhokla, Kachori, Gota, Bhajiya, Patra and Khichu have a short shelf life. Where as snacks like Fafda, Gathiya, Papdi, Sev and Chevdo have a longer shelf life.

Farming might be impossible in Kutch but the bliss thrives in the food and in the heart of the people. Like Lord Krishna's different names, we get to see gram flour's single colour in different forms here. And just like an old photograph Rajpipla's royal family reminds you of past tales. This was the story of Gujarat's food.

Gujarati Kadhi Recipe:

· Preparation Time: 10 minutes

· Cooking Time: 15 minutes

· Serves: 2 servings

· Calories: 160kcal

· Carbohydrates: 16g

· Protein: 6g

· Fat: 8g

Ingredients:

· 1 cup curd/yoghurt

· 3 tbsp besan / gram flour

· ½ tsp ginger paste

· 1 tsp sugar

· 2 cup water

· 1 tbsp ghee / clarified butter

· ½ tsp mustard

· ½ tsp cumin/jeera

· ¼ tsp methi/fenugreek

· 3 cloves/lavang

· 1-inch cinnamon

· 1 dried red chilli

· pinch hing/asafoetida

· few curry leaves

· 2 chilli, slit

· ¾ tsp salt

· 2 tbsp coriander, finely chopped

Instructions:

1. Firstly, in a large bowl take 1 cup curd, 3 tbsp besan, ½ tsp ginger paste and 1 tsp sugar.

2. Add 2 cup water and whisk smooth without forming any lumps. keep aside.

3. Now in a large Kadai heat 1 tbsp ghee and splutter ½ tsp mustard, ½ tsp cumin, ¼ tsp methi, 3 cloves, 1-inch cinnamon, 1 dried red chilli, pinch hing, few curry leaves and 2 chillies.

4. Pour in prepared curd besan mixture and mix well.

5. Keeping the flame on low, stir for 5 minutes or until the mixture comes to a boil. Else the curd might curdle.

6. Continue to boil for 15-20 minutes on medium flame stirring occasionally.

7. Further, add 1 cup water adjusting consistency as required.

8. Add ¾ tsp salt and simmer for 2 minutes.

9. Finally, garnish the kadhi with coriander leaves and serve it with hot steamed rice or turmeric khichdi with ghee.